When I was small, we lived with our grandmother. Sometimes she would get up really early in the morning and make everyone Pho for breakfast. Like most Vietnamese families in the 90s, we didn't have a dining table or anything of the sort. During mealtime, everyone would just sit around on a sedge mat. My grandmother would assemble Pho, fill each bowl with steamy hot broth, and hand it out to everyone. There wasn't much to go around, so each of us only had one helping. Sometimes the hungry kids would get an extra small bowl of just noodles and broth. Meat was scarce back then.

When Pho wasn't on the menu, my grandmother would make my sister and me what we called 'The best fried rice in the world.' It was so simple, yet I haven't tasted anything quite like it! She would heat up her little skillet, melt a spoonful of lard, toss in some finely chopped shallots, wait for it to get fragrant, then put in some leftover rice and use a metal spoon to press the rice down until the bottom layer crisped up. Seasoned with some fish sauce, and it was done. It might not sound like much, but even to this day, we still reminisce about how delicious it tasted and how we have been unable to replicate the flavor.

We didn't have Pho or fried rice every day, however. Banh Mi was our most popular food for breakfast. Crunchy on the outside, airy and chewy in the middle, Banh Mi was perfect to be eaten on its own, though we loved to break off a chunk and dunk it in sweet, velvety condensed milk. On rare occasions, my grandmother would stuff Banh Mi with a few slices of freshly made ham that she got from a local market. It was heaven in every bite.

Our everyday meals were a simple affair. Pickled green mustard, caramelized fish, or sautéed river prawns were served with morning glory clear soup and fluffy rice. Simple but harmonious flavors! The sweetness and saltiness of the cooked fish and prawns were balanced out by the sourness of the pickles, and the rice miraculously brought out those flavors and completed the meal. And if that wasn't enough, we would slurp some elegant clear vegetable soup (morning glory or water spinach were the most popular) - which cleansed our palate before the next mouthful.

Sometimes I wonder what it is about Vietnamese cuisine that makes it so distinctively different from other Asian cuisines. And I figure it must be the use of 'Nuoc Mam' (fish sauce), the fact that we hardly ever use milk or coconut milk in our cooking, and how particular we are with herbs.

Nuoc Mam plays a vital part in Vietnamese cuisine, and we as a nation would be lost without it. Used for marinade, seasoning, and dipping, Nuoc Mam can totally transform a dish. When mixed with chopped garlic, fresh chilies, lime juice, and sugar, Nuoc Mam is known as 'Nuoc Cham' - the cornerstone of Vietnamese meals. It is sweet, salty, and hot. It makes your mouth pucker. It is addictive and can make you yearn for more.

Coconut milk is sometimes used in Vietnamese desserts but hardly in any savory dishes. Instead, we prefer fresh coconut water, which adds a hint of sweetness to the dish without overshadowing it. When it comes to herbs, it is true that not any herb will do! Coriander is for Pho, dill is for fish soup, Vietnamese balm and shiso leaves are meant for Bun Cha. Mix this up and the magic will be lost!

It should, however, be noted that Vietnamese cuisines vary across the country. Northern dishes are usually mild, while food in central regions is often hot and spicy. Bun Bo Hue, with its spicy broth seasoned with shrimp and chili paste, along with unique toppings like crab balls, pork blood curd, and shredded banana flowers, among others, can't be more different from Pho - its distant but more famous cousin.

When it comes to southern Vietnam, expect sweeter flavors and more exotic herbs. The Mekong Delta, endowed with fertile soil and warm weather, is home to many orchards that produce the tastiest fruits in the country. But fruits are not the only thing it is famous for. If you visit this region, make sure to try Canh Chua Ca (sour fish soup made of freshly caught river fish, seasoned with tamarind paste, and topped with bean sprouts, taro stems, okra, and pineapple) and Ca Kho To (braised fish in a terracotta pot with sugar, fish sauce, and lots of peppers).

If you love Vietnamese food and want to learn more about it from a cultural perspective, I encourage you to make it a quest to try some of the foods below in your travels. Depending on your palate, you might lean towards certain flavors, but trust me, your understanding of our cuisine will broaden, and you might even try to surprise your friends with an exotic Vietnamese feast the next time you host a dinner party! I've listed the foods in geographical order so you have an idea of what to try on a typical north-to-south journey (or vice versa!).

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HA NOI

1. Xoi (Sticky Rice with Toppings)

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I love Xoi. It is one of the most beloved foods for breakfast, yet it doesn't get much attention. There are many types of Xoi, but the most popular one is Xoi Xeo. It involves soaking sticky rice in turmeric-infused water overnight, steaming it, and topping it with grated mung bean, crispy shallots, and pork floss.

Though simple, Xoi is incredibly addictive, mainly because of its texture. If you haven't tried steamed sticky rice, I highly encourage you to do so. It's chewy, aromatic, lightly sweet, and when paired with toppings like crushed sesame and peanuts or pork floss, it becomes simply divine!

If you happen to stay in Hanoi's Old Quarter, I recommend waking up early one morning and exploring the street corners. You'll find locals purchasing Xoi from vendors carrying padded bamboo baskets. They will gladly assist you in ordering your own Xoi, adding to your overall experience.

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2. Pho (Vietnamese Noodle Soup)

The restaurant is nothing fancy, with just a few stainless steel or plastic tables and chairs, jars of pickled garlic, bamboo chopsticks, and Pho spoons piled together. There is a large stockpot in the front bubbling up, showing itself off with that unmistakable aroma. The chef, usually the owner, is always bustling about, chopping, blanching and assembling orders as they come in.  In front of her are cooked meat chunks, an wooden board, a pile of bowls next to some baskets of chopped spring onions, Thai basil and coriander.

That is what atypical Pho restaurant looks like. I'm obsessed with Pho, and like many other Vietnamese people, I can enjoy it for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. This noodle soup is not only addictive, but it also possesses an incredible power that feels like a warm hug and can lift your spirits.

The broth that is full of umami flavour, the aromatic coriander, the soft yet chewy rice noodles, the tender beef brisket, the scent of cinnamon, star anises and charred ginger that perfumes the air around you, the freshly cut wedges of lime that when being squeezed over will release such fresh and relaxing smell that instantly wakes you up.

There is nothing quite like Pho and I believe it has more than earned its right to be the most famous Vietnamese dish.

Traditionally there are only 2 types of Pho: Pho Bo (beef Pho) and Pho Ga (chicken Pho). Both are equally delicious though Pho Bo, with its hearty broth made from slowly simmered beef bone, charred onions, ginger, cinnamon bark and star anise is the more popular one. Though most upscale hotels have their own Pho station these days it is still worth seeking out a traditional Pho house to savour the original Pho.

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3. Bun Cha (Grilled Pork with Vermicelli Rice Noodle)

A warren of narrow streets mobbed by people and a crazy overflow of motorbikes, cars, merchants, locals and tourists. The sidewalks are choked with parked motorbikes, cute little souvenir shops & little restaurants. People eat at all hours of the day and night and the air is redolent with the mouth-watering aroma of BBQ fare, particularly Bun Cha. As a nation we are obsessed with this dish and Hanoi Old Quarter is the best place for you to try it!

Bun Cha, a specialty of Hanoi Old Quarter, was once voted as one of the top 10 world street foods by National Geographic. It consists of fragrant chargrilled pork, fresh white vermicelli noodles, crispy pickled green papaya, aromatic shiso leaves, and vibrant salad greens, all bathed in a warm broth infused with fish sauce, chopped red chilies, garlic, and freshly ground black pepper. It is a culinary delight that will leave you yearning for more!

I recommend: Bun Cha Huong Lien

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4. Nem (Deep fried Spring Roll)
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I am obsessed with Nem. It was my favourite dish growing up and still holds a special place in my heart.
My mum usually made Nem during weekends. She would go to the market early in the morning and buy some fresh pork shoulder which she would then mince herself. She then added chopped shitake and wood ear mushroom, grated carrots, soaked Vietnamese glass noodles, spring onions, a couple of egg yolks and a lot of fresh ground back pepper. Each Nem is then rolled up in a super thin rice paper, which I believe is what our makes our Nem so different from other Asian spring rolls. These rice papers, when fried up, will become almost translucent and crumble easily, giving Name a distinctive texture.
There are no words to describe tantalizing scent of freshly made Nem. The aroma wafts through the kitchen, beckoning you to indulge in its deliciousness. When dipped in ‘nuoc cham’, a mix of fresh lime, chopped garlic, sugar, and fish sauce, it is heaven in every bite.

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‍5. Nom (Vietnamese Salad)

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Nom, our answer to Western salad, is characterized by the unique dressing made of fish sauce, rice vinegar, chilli and garlic. When it comes to ingredients Nom is perhaps the most versatile dish. Shredded banana blossoms, lotus roots, green mango or kohlrabi is mixed with steamed tiger prawns, cooked pork or dried beef. Coriander, mint or Vietnamese balm is tossed in, followed by crunchy roasted peanut which adds to the texture.

You will often find nộm in the starter section of any Vietnamese food menu. It is also known as "gỏi" and is particularly popular in southern Vietnam.

What to order: Nom (Goi) Ngo Sen Tom Thit (Lotus roots with prawn and pork salad)/    Nom (Goi) Xoai Tom Kho (mango salad with dried shrimp)/ Nom (Goi) Hoa Chuoi (Banana Blossoms salad)

6. Banh Cuon (Steamed Rice Cake)

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Gordon Ramsay once embarked on a motorbike journey from Hanoi to the serene mountain commune of Mai Chau, renowned for its ethnic minority villages. His mission was to learn the art of crafting banh cuon, a traditional Vietnamese steamed rice roll, in the authentic local style.

As the renowned chef attempted to master the technique, he playfully confessed, "Thank God I wasn't born in Vietnam; I'm just a bad cook here”

While banh cuon often takes a back seat to the popular Banh Mi and pho among tourists, it remains a beloved and time-honoured dish in Vietnam. Specialized white rice is soaked overnight, finely milled, and cooked in a steamer pot. The cooked rice batter is then carefully lifted out with a bamboo stick, resulting in a delicate translucent white sheet. It is then filled with cooked minced pork and wood ear mushrooms before being rolled up like a tortilla. The dish is topped with crispy onions and served with freshly made ham (Cha) and warm dipping sauce.

Banh Cuon is not easy to make, so you will likely only findit at local places where the art has been perfected. Although it is commonly eaten for breakfast, Banh Cuon is a delightful treat that can be enjoyed at anytime of the day.

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7. Pho Cuon (Pho Roll)

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Ngu Xa village, situated on a small peninsula near the center of Hanoi, holds a significant place in the history of Phở Cuốn. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of this distinctive dish. The credit for its creation is attributed to Ms. Chinh, a local woman who originally sold traditional Phở in the area.

According to the story, one hot summer day, Ms. Chinh observed her customers sweating profusely as they enjoyed a steaming bowl of Phở. This observation sparked her ingenuity, leading her to develop a brilliant idea to adapt the flavors of Phở into a refreshing and lighter dish, perfectly suited for the sweltering weather.

Ms. Chinh began experimenting with the concept of using Phở sheets to wrap around a filling of stir-fried beef and fresh coriander. The outcome was a delightful combination of textures and flavors. The soft and translucent Phở sheets, filled with savory beef and aromatic coriander, provided a refreshing twist to the traditional Phở experience.

To complement the dish, Ms. Chinh crafted a sweet and sour dipping sauce, which added a tangy and vibrant element to the rolls. The sauce balanced the richness of the beef and elevated the overall taste of Phở Cuốn.

News of Ms. Chinh's innovative creation quickly spread throughout the village, capturing the attention of locals and visitors alike. As a result, Phở Cuốn gained popularity and became a beloved dish. Today, when you visit Ngu Xa, you will find numerous local restaurants and street vendors specializing in Phở Cuốn, each offering their unique variations and interpretations of the dish.

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8. Cha Ca (Grilled fish with rice noodles and herbs)

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If you were to ask me for a dish unique to Hanoi, one that can't be found anywhere else in the country, my answer would undoubtedly be Cha Ca.

Cha Ca, a Hanoi delicacy, holds such esteem that it is considered a must-try by foreign diplomats visiting the capital. In fact, there is an entire street dedicated to this renowned dish.

The preparation of Cha Ca begins with marinating chunky pieces of Vietnamese freshwater fish, specifically Ca Lang, in a flavorful blend of turmeric, galangal, garlic, fish sauce, and fermented rice. These marinated fish pieces are then seared over a charcoal stove until they turn beautifully golden.

When Cha Ca is served at your table, it arrives with a delightful array of accompaniments. Imagine a basket filled with vermicelli, fresh dill, spring onions, roasted peanuts, and shrimp paste.

As you sit back and anticipate the culinary experience, your waiter prepares a cast-iron pan, searing the fragrant dill and spring onions before adding the cooked fish chunks. Once the fish is perfectly done, it is presented on your plate, ready to be enhanced with fresh rice noodles, peanuts, and a drizzle of shrimp paste. For those with a more subtle palate, fish sauce can be used as an alternative to shrimp paste.

Cha Ca is often referred to as Hanoi's signature dish, as its unique flavors and preparation style are not commonly found elsewhere in the country.

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MAI CHAU

I love Mai Chau. It's just a short 4-hour drive from Hanoi but it feels like a different world. The beauty of its lush valleys, green mountains, and rice paddies is simply mesmerizing. However, what truly makes Mai Chau special for me is its mouth-watering local cuisine.

In Mai Chau, everything is fresh. The fish from the Da River, the bamboo shoots from the forest - all locally caught or foraged. When you visit the local market in the morning, you'll see vendors selling their own fresh produce. It's this freshness that makes the food in Mai Chau so exceptional.

Food here is traditionally served on a big round bamboo tray called a Met. This authentic way of dining allows you to enjoy a delightful spread of 6 or 7 dishes that truly represent the flavours of this region.

Below are my most favourite there dishes that you should try when you visit this region.

1. Thit Ban Xien Nuong (Grilled Wild Boar)

Thit Ban Xien Nuong is a tantalizing dish reminiscent of the popular Cha (grilled pork) in Bun Cha. However, what sets it apart is the use of meat sourced from free-roaming wild boars. The meat is marinated with a unique ingredient called Indian prickly ash (hat mac khen), which brings a captivating aroma. This specialty is a true reflection of the flavours and ingredients found in the north-western region of Vietnam.

2. Ga Doi (Boiled Free Range Chicken)

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Boiled chicken? You might not consider it a top culinary choice, but let me share a little secret with you. In Vietnam, especially during Tet holidays and other important celebrations, this dish takes on a whole new level of significance. It's a tradition to place a carefully prepared boiled chicken on the family altar as a symbol of reverence for our ancestors. And back in the day, it was the star dish reserved for esteemed guests.

Now, while boiled chicken may seem simple, mastering it is no easy task. There's nowhere to hide with this dish! It all starts with selecting the right chicken—free-range and of specific weight to ensure the perfect texture and taste. Served alongside thinly shredded lime leaf, a simple kumquat, pepper and salt dipping sauce, and a steaming plate of sticky rice, it's a delightful combination that will make you say, "C'est la vie!"

For me Mai Chau is one of the best places to try this dish. Here, amidst enchanting landscapes of gardens, hills, and meadows, chickens roam freely, absorbing the essence of their surroundings. It's no wonder the flavors they yield are unparalleled.

3. Com Lam (Grilled Rice in Bamboo Tubes)

This amazing rice dish is found only in northern Vietnam, and it's both simple and incredibly delicious. Glutinous rice is soaked and packed tightly into bamboo tubes, which are sealed with dried banana leaves. Then, they're grilled over an open flame. The result? Fragrant rice rolls that taste heavenly when paired with freshly roasted peanuts and sesame.

NINH BINH

1. De Tai Chanh (Lemon Lime Goat)

You will see this dish on the menu at every single restaurant in Ninh Binh and it has the potential to be the best goat dish you’ll ever try!

Ninh Binh, often referred to as the 'Ha Long Bay on land,' is renowned not only for its breathtaking limestone karsts and shimmering rivers but also for its population of mountain goats that freely roam in the wild, nourishing themselves with medicinal plants and wild herbs.

One of the standout dishes in this region features steamed goat meat, expertly sliced into thin pieces and combined with a medley of flavors. The succulent meat is marinated in a mixture of zesty lime juice, fragrant lemongrass, and rich roasted sesame. To complement the dish, it is accompanied by sliced green banana, star fruit, apricot leaves, and a drizzle of fermented soy sauce.

The magic lies in the combination of these ingredients. The tangy lime juice and savory soy sauce work in harmony to accentuate the natural sweetness of the meat. The addition of bitter green banana and the nutty notes from the apricot leaves further enhance the overall taste profile, resulting in a harmonious blend of flavors that will leave your taste buds yearning for more.

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2. Com Chay (Crispy Rice)

Crunchy. Salty. A bit fatty. Absolutely moreish. Brace yourself for the addictive delight of this crispy rice dish that will keep you coming back for more! Beginning with soaked glutinous rice, it undergoes a meticulous process of steaming and drying under the scorching sun. Once perfectly dried, it takes a dive into the sizzling hot oil, emerging as a golden, crispy temptation that is impossible to resist. To elevate the flavours, the crispy rice is generously seasoned with delectable pork floss and sautéed green onions, adding a savoury dimension that will leave your taste buds in awe.

3. Nem Chua Yen Mac (Yen Mac Pork Roll)

We love fermented food, and if you visit local markets, you will see jars of fermented eggplants and mustard greens sold alongside an array of herbs. But it's not only veggies that we ferment. In Ninh Binh, you'll find the most delicious, fermented pork roll. Made from pork, which is expertly seasoned with toasted rice powder and black pepper, then wrapped in fragrant guava and banana leaves, it emits the most pleasant aroma! I particularly love its slightly sour and nutty taste that pairs really well with apricot or guava leaves. To enjoy, dampen the rice paper, line an apricot leaf, fill the roll with the pork meat, add more local herbs, roll it up, and dip it in the sweet and sour sauce. Heaven!

4. Xoi Trung Kien (Sticky Rice with Ant Eggs)

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This dish is truly indescribable, but it offers a flavor unlike anything you've ever experienced! After harvesting, typically in the second lunar month, ant eggs are soaked in warm water and then fried until they turn golden. These crispy ant eggs are used as a topping for steamed sticky rice, adding a delightful combination of slightly sour, lemony, and nutty flavors that beautifully complement the natural sweetness of the rice.

Please note that the provided picture is the closest representation I could find of the dish. The actual appearance may vary.

HUE

For me, Hue, the former royal capital, stands out as one of the most remarkable culinary destinations in Vietnam. The gastronomic delights of this city range from the regal Nem Cong Cha Phuong (Peacock Spring Roll & Phoenix Ham), a dish mastered only by skilled chefs, to the iconic 'Bun Bo Hue' (Hue beef noodle soup), an acquired taste that can become truly addictive. When I explore Hue, I always ensure I have a free day to immerse myself in the local culinary scene and sample all the unique delicacies it has to offer.

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1. Com Hen (Baby Clam Rice)

Com Hen is a Hue delicacy and has such an unique taste that is not easy to be replicated. Baby clams are soaked in rice water (and sometimes ginseng water) before being brought to boil. The broth is then filtered and set aside. The cooked clams are then sauteed with fish sauce and together with crispy pork rind & onion, sour starfruit, roasted peanut and sesame seeds, the toppings for Com Hen are finished. When eaten with cool boiled rice and cockle broth it is sweet, sour, nutty, spicy at the same time!

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2. Bun Bo Hue (Hue Beef Noodle Soup)

Once praised by the late Anthony Bourdain as the ‘best soup in the world’, Bun Bo Hue is actually not for the faint of heart.

My first impression of this soup is the little red chili flecks that almost colours the broth. It somehow hints at you that it is not going to be gentle on your palette. And it is not. It is a flavour explosion. Beef shank and pork knuckle are stewed with lemongrass, chili flakes, and fermented shrimp paste for hours till it bursts with flavour. Once done, it exudes such an distinctive aroma that you can’t help but be drawn in. The broth is deeply savoury while the thinly sliced beef, served as main toppings, has such firm texture it is satisfying to eat. It is likely you will also have congealed pig blood, which according to locals, add some cool (yang) element to the rather spicy and hot (ying) soup.

Ready to tuck in? Don’t forget to squeeze some fresh lime all over it. It provides some tangy undertones that together with banana blossoms, coriander and basil take the dish to the next level.

3. Nem Lui (Grilled Pork Stick)

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This skewer pork dish is simply the best I've ever tasted! Seasoned pork mince is wrapped around fresh lemongrass and grilled to perfection. To enjoy, moisten the rice paper and fill it with sliced pineapple, fig, pickled carrot, cucumber, Vietnamese mint, rice vermicelli, and the flavorful pork skewer. Remove the lemongrass stalk and indulge in the amazing dipping sauce made with roasted peanuts, sautéed pork liver, pork bone broth, green chilies, sugar, and fish sauce. It's a nutty, sweet, and slightly spicy delight that complements the pork roll perfectly.

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4. Banh Beo - Nam - Loc (Royal Cakes)

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Hue is especially famous for the savoury dumplings or royal cakes that can be found in sidewalk eateries as well as fine dining restaurants. Originally made for Hue emperors, these delicacies are a must try when you visit Hue.  

Banh Beo

While it may appear humble, this dish requires time and attention. The dough for bánh bèo is carefully crafted using a combination of rice and tapioca flour, then left to rest for 5-6 hours before being steamed in individual ceramic dishes. Once cooked, it is adorned with a delectable array of toppings, including shrimp floss made from freshly caught tiger shrimps, crispy fried pork rind, and sautéed green onions. To elevate the flavors, it is enjoyed alongside a sweet and tangy chili sauce. Simple in appearance, yet bursting with deliciousness!

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Banh Nam

Banh Nam shares similarities with Banh Beo, yet it offers its own unique experience. This delicate delight takes the form of a flat parcel, lovingly steamed within a banana leaf wrapping. As you unwrap it, a tantalizing blend of ground pork, succulent shrimp, and steamed rice/tapioca unfolds before your eyes. The aroma of the steamed banana leaf imparts a subtle earthiness to the dish, while the shrimp and pork filling adds a savoury depth of flavour.

To fully enjoy Banh Nam, take your time and savour each bite. Drizzle a generous amount of fish sauce across the parcel, allowing its salty-sweet notes to mingle with the tender filling before gently scraping it from the banana leaf.

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Banh Loc

Made from tapioca flour, this is another Hue speciality that can’t be missed. Inside each translucent tapioca casing, a grilled shrimp, perfectly cooked and unshelled, is nestled alongside a chunk of flavourful pork belly. Like its counterpart Banh Nam, Banh Loc is delicately wrapped in banana leaves and served with a side of fish sauce for dipping.

5. Banh Ram It

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Crunchy, chewy, savory, and sweet, Banh Ram It is one-of-a-kind, so be prepared for a taste explosion!

Unlike other Hue dumplings, there are two parts to Ram It. The "It" part is made of glutinous rice flour, which brings a satisfyingly chewy texture. This is complemented by the "Ram" part – a crispy fried dough that melts in your mouth. Topped with savory shrimp floss and enjoyed with the usual sweet and sour dipping sauce, it is absolute heaven!

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6. Che Hue (Hue Dessert)

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In Vietnamese cuisine, "Che" refers to a delightful sweet pudding, and it holds a special place as the nation's favorite dessert. While traditionally made with mung beans or black beans,in Hue, che is taken another level.

Che Sen stands out with its sweetness and fragrant notes, crafted from fresh lotus seeds sourced from the serene lotus ponds of Hue. Che Bot Loc, a tapioca flour creation immersed in a ginger-infused broth, offers a warm and comforting experience. For those who appreciate natural sweetness, Che Bap delights with its creamy texture and the enticing flavor of young corn. And let's not forget Che Heo Quay, a unique savory Che that may spark some debates, featuring succulent roasted pork belly as its star ingredient—a true gastronomic delight that demands a taste!

With a staggering array of 36 different types of Che Hue is the ultimate destination in Vietnam for Che enthusiasts.

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HOI AN

It's hard to come across someone who doesn't fall in love with Hoi An. Voted as the best city on earth by readers of Wanderlust Magazine, Hoi An truly has it all. This charming town is steeped in history, adorned with picturesque French-colonial buildings and enchanting laneways that come alive every evening with the warm glow of lanterns. Not to mention the stunning beaches and serene countryside, perfect for leisurely bike rides. Hoi An lives up to all the hype surrounding it.

However, what truly captivates me about Hoi An is its culinary scene. Whether you're exploring the bustling Cho (market), relaxing at riverside cafes, or indulging in fine dining experiences, exceptional food awaits you at every turn. The variety and quality of dishes are simply outstanding.

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1. Cao Lau (Hoi An Noodles)

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Cao Lau is a unique dish that is Hoi An's specialty and somehow reveals the Old Town's history as one of Asia's busiest trading ports between the 16th and 19th centuries.

Chewy, morish noodles that bear a strong resemblance to Japanese udon, fragrant barbecued pork that is similar to Chinese Char Siu, crispy croutons that are of French origin - it might sound like a fusion dish but it is definitely not easy to pull off, with the exact recipe a closely guarded family secret.

The quintessence of Cao Lau is noodles, made from long, fragrant rice soaked in water infused with firewood ash taken from Cu Lao Cham or Cham Island, 15 km from Cua Dai Beach. The water that the rice is soaked in is spring water drawn from Ba Le well, which is said to have specific minerals that determine the noodle texture.

The rice is then milled, made into a dough, cut into strands, and steamed several times, giving the noodles their unique springy texture.

Local people are also specific about the herbs that are served with Cao Lau. It is said that herbs from Tra Que village have a special aroma and taste and are meant for Cao Lau and other Hoi An dishes.

2. My Quang (Quang Nam Noodles)

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Mi Quang, a cousin of Cao Lau, has its own unique characteristics. It features soft, chewy noodles and a rich broth that bursts with umami flavors. The dish is adorned with delightful toppings such as boiled quail eggs, sautéed tiger prawns and pork, chopped roasted peanuts, crispy sesame rice crackers, and, of course, the aromatic Tra Que herbs. Originating from Quang Nam, a province located south of Hoi An, Mi Quang has become a beloved street food for many!

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3. Banh Mi Hoi An (Hoi An Sandwhich)

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There is Banh Mi and there is Banh Mi Hoi An.

It is true that food sometimes can make you feel emotional. You know the kind of food that you take a bite then you pause? Banh Mi Hoi An does have that magic.

It starts with a fresh loaf of bread toasted to crispy perfection over a charcoal stove. The seller then layers on a rich, creamy pate, followed by juicy char siu pork, savory ham, and flavorful pork floss. Tangy pickled carrots and daikon add a delightful crunch, while fresh cucumber and coriander bring a burst of freshness.

But here's where the magic happens. The seller unveils a secret sauce, drizzling it over the Banh Mi loaf, and it transforms everything. One bite and the world around you fades away. You savor the exquisite flavors, wondering how you've lived without this remarkable sandwich.

If you're seeking a culinary experience that stirs your soul, Banh Mi Hoi An is a must-try. Trust me, it's pure sandwich magic that will leave you in awe.

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4. Com Ga (Chicken Rice)

Another Hoi An specialty that you can’t find anywhere else.

This dish reveals our obsession for boiled chicken. Not just any chicken but those that roam in the gardens and on the hills and feed on an organic diet. The meat of those chickens is so flavorful that we don’t want to do much to it.

A whole chicken is simply boiled in ginger, onion, and fish sauce-infused water and then smeared with some turmeric powder before being left to cool. At the same time, soaked jasmine rice is roasted till dry before being cooked in the chicken broth till fragrant and fluffy. The chicken intestines are also sautéed with onion and garlic and set aside.

To assemble, shredded chicken will be put on top of the rice, next to some crunchy papaya salad that has been tossed with chili, vinegar, crispy peanuts, garlic & Vietnamese mint, which brings another dimension to this dish and can’t be done without.

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5. Banh Hoa Hong Trang (White Rose Dumplings)

A must-try when you visit Hoi An. This White Rose Dumpling tastes as good as it looks.

Made from rice flour, the preparation of the dough is rumored to be a family secret. Topped with pork floss and crispy onions, this chewy and light dumpling is quite addictive when dipped in a light sweet and sour sauce. Perfect as a starter or snack any time of the day.

6. Banh Xeo Hoi An (Crispy Pancake)

You might see Banh Xeo served at many restaurants in Vietnam, but my favorite Banh Xeo is from Hoi An, and the secret to its distinctive texture is the little cast iron pan in which the batter is fried. About the size of a small plate but rather chunky, this pan cooks the fillings (usually pork, fresh bean sprouts, and juicy prawns) and the batter (made from rice flour, coconut milk, and turmeric) almost instantly, resulting in the crispiest, yummiest texture!

The way I like to enjoy it is by placing the Banh Xeo on a sheet of rice paper and rolling it up like a spring roll. Dip it in a sauce made from crushed peanuts, cooked pork liver, chili, sugar, and lime, and it becomes heaven in every bite.

7. Bo Cuon La Lot (Grilled Beef in Betel Leaves)

You might not see this dish mentioned very often but you can see it in the menu of almost every restaurants in Hoi An. Betel leaves (La Lot) when grilled or fried produces the yummiest,most amazing smell and is the vital ingredient of this dish.

Seasoned mince beef is wrapped up in these special leaves and grilled till fragrant. Served with rice noodles, green salad and a sweet, sour and spicy sauce, it is the ultimate lunch dish every single time!

HO CHI MINH CITY (SAI GON)

Saigon, Vietnam's bustling metropolis, is renowned for its vibrant food scene and is a true paradise for food lovers. While you can indulge in regional dishes like Bun Cha Hanoi, Bun Bo Hue, and Cao Lau from Hoi An, Saigon has its own signature delicacies that are a must-try when exploring the city.

1. Com Tam (Broken Rice)

An iconic Saigon dish! You can find Com Tam eatery in almost all streets in this city. People from all walks of life: office workers, cyclo drivers, foreigners, housewives, kids.. can all be found in a Com Tam setting. It is usually noisy with people chatting, waiters running arounds taking and delivering orders, the smokey air smelling of chargrilled pork; in summer it can be hot, sweaty and it can be too much but it is so Saigon and I love it.

‘Tam’ means broken rice which is fragments of rice grains broken during the handling processes. It is said that during the bad rice crop in the old days, there wasn’t enough rice to go around and people had to resort to eating broken rice, only to be amazed by its distinctively fluffy texture that goes really well with a  mouth-wateringly delicious piece of chargrilled pork rib, some thinly shredded pork skin that is coated with fragrantly toasted rice powder, a piece of ‘cha trung’ (Vietnamese-style steamed omelet with pork mince) that adds some richness and some pickled carrot and radish that brings the tanginess.

Com Tam can be eaten anytime of day but I’d like to have it for lunch. I want to sit down on a little plastic chair during day time, feel the scorching sun on my face while sipping some ‘Tra Da’ (Vietnamese ice tea) waiting for the food. I want to hear the sizzling sound of the meat being grilled, smell that irresistible aroma that always manages to escape the little eatery, stop the traffic and lure people in. It’s for me a quintessentially Saigon experience that is hard to find anywhere else.

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2. Ca Kho To (Braised, caramalised fish)

Not Bun Cha. Not Nem Cuon. Not Pho. It is Ca Kho that is a stable in our everyday meal.

Though the cooking method is similar, Ca Kho To, originating from the south, is the most well-known version of the dish. Chunky pieces of snakehead fish and pork belly are marinated with fish sauce, sugar and a generous amount of black pepper before being slowly simmered in a clay pot with fresh coconut water. After a few hours the fat from the pork belly melts into the rich, lightly sweet and savoury sauce, giving it a beautiful shine; the fish becomes deeply caramelised but firm when touched and the whole thing comes to life when served with some fluffy white rice, a bowl of Canh Chua (fish soup), and a side of sour, crunchy Ca Phao (pickled white eggplants).

For me Ca Kho To has the most mesmerizing smell. It evokes the memories of everyone gathering up around the table after a long day at work, chatting, laughing, getting ready to dig in a family meal that is full of delicious comfort food. It is homey and somehow reassuring. It’s pure joy.

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3. Hu Tieu Nam Vang (Nam Vang Noodles)

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Hu Tieu is the most popular noodle soup in Saigon and also perhaps the most versatile one. Unlike Pho or Bun Bo, Hu Tieu can be enjoyed with broth (‘nuoc dung’) or without (kho). I always prefer Hu Tieu with broth. I think it is exquisite. Made from pork bones, dried shrimp and squid, dried turnip, pork liver and pork heart, Hu Tieu broth is deeply meaty, robust, earthy with sweet undertones from the dried seafood.  

The toppings also don’t hold back: thin slices of boiled pork, pork heart & liver, steamed succulent tiger prawns, boiled quail eggs, chopped chives, lettuce and crispy onion. If you’d like a noodle dish that keeps on giving it is Hu Tieu. I’d like to squeeze a couple of  lime wedges over mine and enjoy it with some fresh chili slices that gives it a spicy kick.

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4. An Oc (Snail and Shellfish)

Eating snails, or "An Oc," is a beloved pastime in the country, and in Saigon, it has become a cultural staple. On weekends or after work, groups of families, friends, and colleagues gather at Quan Oc to socialize, eat, drink, and unwind. The menu often includes a wide variety of snail and shellfish dishes, including steamed snails, fried snails with butter and garlic, sautéed snails with salted egg sauce, steamed clams with lemongrass, and grilled oysters with spring onions. It is every snail and selfish dish you can imagine and more!

The food won't take long to prepare. You've likely settled in by now and ordered a drink, perhaps a Bia Hoi (fresh beer) or Tra Da (iced tea). A nearby table is now occupied by another group of diners, and although the plastic table is small, it can accommodate a plethora of plates that fit snugly together. The air is filled with the scent of tamarind, coconut, chili, lime, and the unmistakable aroma of Oc and other shellfish. The atmosphere is lively, with people shouting, whispering, and laughing, creating an energetic buzz that is contagious

Although it may not be what you're used to, I encourage you to be open-minded as it is incredibly delicious. As a country, we have a fondness for foods that are firm and chewy, and snails fit that criteria perfectly. However, the true magic lies in the sauce. In northern regions, people enjoy plain boiled snails dipped in a sauce infused with ginger and kumquats, while in the south, a more flavorful approach is favored. The most popular sauce is buttery, creamy, tangy, and spicy, and although you may initially feel like you shouldn't have too much of it, you can't resist its fiery flavor. The sauce is so irresistible that before you know it, you'll find yourself under the spell of snail cuisine.

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5. Canh Chua Ca (Sweet & Sour Fish Soup)

In Vietnam, a typical meal generally consists of a few fried, stir-fried, or stewed dishes accompanied by a small plate of pickles and some vegetable, meat, or fish soup. The pickles serve to counterbalance the richness of the main dishes, while the soup provides both a palate cleanser and a wet (yang) element to the otherwise 'dry' (ying) meal.

One of my personal favorites is Canh Chua Ca, a fish soup that's so delicious that it can be a meal in and of itself when eaten with rice. It's a perfect example of the yin-yang balance that's so important in Vietnamese cuisine, with a sweet and sour flavor that comes from fresh pineapple, tamarind, and ripe tomatoes; the contrasting textures from crunchy okra and bean sprouts and the soft meaty fish; and the different undertones from the slight bitterness of the rice paddy field (ngo om) and  and the sweet and aromatic spring onions.

To really bring out the flavors of the soup, it's traditionally served with a simple Nuoc Cham sauce that consists only of fish sauce and bird eye chilies - no garlic, lime, or sugar. This type of Nuoc Cham is perfect for enhancing the natural sweetness of the fish, and all you need to do is use your chopsticks to dip the fish in the sauce, eat it with some rice, and then savor the incredible broth.

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6. Goi Cuon (Fresh Spring Roll)

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Goi Cuon, also known as fresh spring rolls, is indeed a delightful and refreshing treat. The soft and translucent rice paper wrapper encases a combination of fresh ingredients that burst with vibrant flavors. Typically, you'll find a medley of leafy greens, mint, coriander, along with protein like pork tenderloin and shrimp, all neatly wrapped in the roll.

When it comes to dipping sauces, there are various options to enhance the flavors of gỏi cuốn. One popular choice is a nutty hoisin sauce, which adds richness and depth to the roll. However, my personal favorite is Nuoc Cham, a tangy and slightly sweet fish sauce-based dipping sauce. I think it beautifully complements the freshness of the ingredients, providing a perfect balance of flavors.

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MEKONG DELTA

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1. Bun Mam (Noodles with Fermented Fish Paste)

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I was in my third day of my Mekong trip when I tried Bun Mam. ‘Wow! What is this soup?’ – I asked myself. It was strong, pungent, fishy, sweet, and sour.  It is bold and in your face. It can also be overwhelming, yet you don’t want to stop eating as each bite holds the potential for the new discovery that you don’t want to miss.

The added squid slices are crunchy, sweet, and flavoursome. The fish cakes bring some chewiness. The river prawns are fresh and succulent. And there is a plethora of vegetables, herbs and even flowers, uncooked or blanched that provides so much texture and taste. Shredded banana blossoms are slightly bitter; Bong Dien Dien (yellow dandelion) is aromatic, fresh and crispy; okra is green, and grassy. For me Bun Mam feels like Mekong Delta in a bowl and offers a sensory experience like no others!

I must admit though, Bun Mam might not be your easiest soup to get into. The star ingredient in this soup is "Mam," which is essentially the Khmer prahok sauce that consists of crushed, salted fermented mudfish sauce and to some it might be overpowering. However, it is precisely this sauce that sets Bun Mam apart from other noodle soups and gives it its distinctive taste. If you're keen on experiencing authentic local flavours, Bun Mam should really be on your list.

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